Amish Dutch Country
While planning our initial destinations down the east coast, there was little hesitation in determining our second destination. Misty and I both had a desire to visit Lancaster, PA. We knew this was the place for Pennsylvania Dutch food and culture. Of particular mention, we were very anxious to try the cultural homestyle treats (such as shoofly pie, whoopie pies, etc.).
Amish families do live in the area we come from in the Finger Lakes Region of NY, so we are not completely unfamiliar with seeing members of this community. However, they are a much more significant segment of society in Lancaster Country. We were very eager to see the picturesque farms, well-tended fields, horse and buggies and learn more about this peaceful and close-knit group of people.
The beauty of the homes and farms was everything we hoped for as we traveled throughout the county. We had many opportunities to witness families, couples and individuals going about their business in their horse and buggies. It was a real treat to stop at an Amish produce stand to obtain their home-grown sweet corn, summer squash, zucchini and fresh melon. Some of the best we’ve ever had.
Although there are many ways to experience the Amish culture in Lancaster County, we selected a location in Bird-In-Hand, PA called The Amish Experience. Accompanied by my parents, we purchased tickets that gave us access to a film in the theater called “Jacob’s Choice”. This thirty-five-minute film tells the story of a fictional Amish teenager and his family. The intent of the film is to give the viewer a sense of Amish life and the choices each generation is faced with making. The choice to accept the Amish way and to join the Amish church, or to accept the ways of the outside world and leave their family and community behind. The process is called the Rumspringa period. When an Amish youth turns sixteen, they are allowed some liberty to experience life outside the Amish community. Many choose to remain, but some enjoy what they experienced and leave.
Contained within the film, is a history of the Amish and mostly German culture. It included the devastating persecutions they faced in Europe for their beliefs; their perilous emigration to the then Colony of Pennsylvania governed under William Penn, and their settlement in Lancaster. The story of the Amish is like many people who traveled to America to seek religious freedom and the freedom to live as they choose. We also learned about the importance the Amish place on their faith in God, their dedication to the church, and their love for their family.
Once we finished viewing the film, our tickets gave us access to The Amish Country Homestead (House & School tour). Neither is an actual Amish house or school; they are re-creations. The school desks we were able to sit at, however, were obtained from an authentic Amish school. Both the school and house are laid out according to what one typically could expect to see.
The tour guide, who we enjoyed immensely, shared the typical Amish school day. The teacher is most often a young, unmarried woman in her late teens or early twenties. Once she marries, she takes on the responsibility of her home and family and a new teacher is selected.
Since schools are a one-room school house with one teacher, a typical class will include children from the age of six to the age of fourteen or fifteen. Each grade level has their own appropriate lesson plan and curriculum. These plans includes English and German lessons. Writing, arithmetic and geography are also taught. Once children reach eighth grade, they are considered to have learned everything necessary to thrive in the Amish community. They’re now expected to help with the work at home or on the farm.
After our visit to the schoolhouse, our tour commenced through the homestead, and we were amazed at both the simplicity and the complexity of Amish living. Contrary to popular opinion, the Amish are not opposed to new ideas or technology, per se. What they are concerned with is the impact anything new may have on their community and their families. The appointed bishops of the church, review and determine what can be accepted into the Amish home and what is considered too dangerous.
An example is the telephone. When this technology first came on the scene more than one hundred years ago, the bishops thoroughly reviewed it. Their conclusion was a telephone installed in the house would be too dangerous. It might lead to a family or individual relying too much on the connection to the outside world rather than each other. However, they were not opposed to the benefits of having access to the technology for business purposes and safety in the event of emergencies. The ruling on this matter resulted in approval for a telephone to be installed on a family’s property. But only if it’s in a separate structure away from all other structures. It did take them several decades to reach this decision; it is a process for them. Currently, the cell phone is being debated among the Amish community with varying views. It will be interesting to learn how they rule on this device, although I do not expect a decision will be made anytime soon.
The Amish do use propane for heating and lights. Hydraulic systems may also be employed for running various equipment including what we might consider antique washing machines. The hydraulics are often powered by diesel engines kept in a separate structure on their property. Electricity is used for various purposes including lighting. The electricity they use however, is not from a wall socket obtained from the grid. Any electricity they use is battery generated and therefore self-sustaining. We witnessed a lamp in the kitchen, powered by a battery of the type used to power a cordless tool (i.e., a drill or weed eater).
The clothing is made at home, and in the case of women, the color of the head coverings and aprons traditionally are different based on whether she is married or unmarried. In some Amish communities, however, this is changing. Brighter colored dresses are often finding more acceptance, especially among the younger generations.
The reason for the horse and buggy is quite simple and, in my opinion, profound. The Amish feel that automobiles make it possible to travel much further from the family, much faster. I don’t think any of us would disagree with this assessment. The horse and buggy keep them closer together; this is paramount to their beliefs. It is a way of life that emphasizes their devotion to each other and one of the most important aspects of being Amish. It did make us nervous at times, to see an Amish buggy or two, surrounded by the busiest of daily traffic. Clearly, they are accustomed to it since they did not display any of our fears. Interestingly enough, bicycles are frowned upon because they’re considered an individualistic activity which may draw a person away from the community, however foot-powered scooters are allowed. We saw several young Amish traveling around on one of these scooters.
We also noticed barns that we had never seen before. The barns had panels that extend out from the walls and seemed to have something drying from the ceiling. We asked our guide what the barns were and learned the Amish farmers have seen a decrease in dairy revenue and have resorted to growing tobacco to supplement this loss. The tobacco is hung from the ceiling of the barn and the panels allow for additional ventilation in the drying process. It’s important to note, the tobacco is for commercial purposes only and is not used by the Amish themselves.
What was surprising to learn is the Amish, unlike the Mennonites, do not have physical church buildings. The Amish set up “districts” based on the number of families in a particular area. Each district gathers every Sunday for worship and church services. These church gatherings take place at the home and farm of an individual family residing within that district. The schedule is rotated throughout the year, so each family is responsible for hosting at least once. Since lunch and fellowship follows each Sunday service, it would be a hardship to hold the services at the same location each week, hence the sharing of this responsibility. There are also special wagons called “church wagons” that are shared throughout the district. It contains additional seating and tables since the host family would not be able to provide enough for the assembly. Sunday is very important to the Amish, and only necessary work such as milking and cooking, is conducted.
All in all, we came away from Lancaster with a deeper respect and appreciation for the Amish, their culture and beliefs. Yes, their chosen lifestyle is different from our own and yes, we would hesitate to give up the lifestyle we are comfortable with. But deep down, the Amish are not that different. They love God, they love the church, they love each other, and they desire to protect what they love to the best of their ability. May God continue to bless the Amish, in Pennsylvania or anywhere else they call home.