Not Your Average Hills

While staying alongside the Mississippi River, we had the opportunity to visit a historical and archaeological site in Natchez, MS. This site was the main center for the Natchez People, pronounced “NAH-Chee”, unlike the city’s pronunciation which sounds like matches (but with an ‘n’ and ‘z’ instead of an ‘m’ and ‘s’).

The Natchez are a Native American people whose ancestors were part of a civilization historians identify as the Mississippian Culture. This was a significant, pre-European civilization, which thrived all along the Mississippi River valley and its tributaries, from the Great Lakes region to the Gulf Coast.

The people of this culture are known for having built substantial earthwork mounds. It was the presence of some of these mounds in Natchez which caught my attention the most. I have a deep respect for, and desire to know more about the original inhabitants of the Americas. My aunt and uncle had gifted me with a book on the archeological history of North America. Having read about the various mound builder cultures in that book, I just had to see one of these sites with my own eyes.

The village complex known as the Grand Village of the Natchez Indians was originally constructed around 1200 AD. French authorities and colonists are the primary source for the historical record of this location. In the southwest United States, it is exceedingly rare to have historical accounts accompany the archeological record of an ancient location so to have both sources for this site is exciting!

According to these records, the Grand Village became a political and ceremonial center for the Natchez in the late 1600s to early 1700s. The majority of the Natchez lived in villages throughout the surrounding territory, hunting, fishing, and raising beans, corn and squash. They would come to the Grand Village only for specific activities. These activities might be ceremonially, political, or social in nature.

Upon entering the site, a sign warning of possible poisonous snakes on the property caused a little hesitation. I tried not to be concerned as I moved down the path from the parking lot. This was early December after all, surely snakes were hibernating – I hoped.

A park-like area of trees opened up into a flower strewn field before me. At the back center of the field, I approached, for the first time, an obvious and distinctive man-made mound just like I had read about. A sense of reverence came over me as I slowly walked across the open field and to the base of this mound.

It turns out the first, and most prominent mound I approached was where the home of the hereditary chief of the Natchez, called The Great Sun, previously stood. The French recorded this fact, and the archeology revealed the mound had been constructed in four stages. The evidence from excavation showed houses once existed on each level of those four construction stages. The French observed that whenever The Great Sun died, his home was torn down, and another house constructed for the new Great Sun.

To the right of The Great Sun’s mound was the portion of the field which would have been the plaza. This is where religious and social events such as ball games, harvest feasts, dances, and funeral processions took place.

On the other side of the plaza was the temple mound. The temple was a tall and imposing structure described by various French colonists as having a sacred nature. The Natchez kept a perpetual fire burning inside, and only the princes and princesses were allowed to enter, as relayed to French colonist and historian, Antoine-Simon Le Page du Pratz.

As I walked among these mounds, I contemplated as I typically do in historical locations, the lives that long ago touched this place. I reflected on the known and unknown events that transpired there. I try to imagine what it would have looked like before the Spanish, French, and English came in contact with the people who once experienced life here. Or what it was like when the French visited The Great Sun for the first time.

Sadly, a large population of the Natchez’s ancestors likely died from European diseases as countless Native American peoples did. It is speculated the Natchez were first exposed to illness by Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto’s expedition which traveled through the region in 1542-1543. After initial friendship developed with the French, the Natchez ultimately came into conflict with the French settlers.

Disputes and misunderstandings led to several violent wars which ended in a portion of the Natchez, including The Great Sun, being sold into slavery in Saint-Domingue (modern Haiti). The remaining people took refuge among the Muscogee (Creek) and Chickasaw people to the east. The majority of the survivors later integrated with the Cherokee Nation while retaining their identity amongst them.

The Natchez Nation still exists today, primarily living in Oklahoma and in small communities around the southern Appalachian Mountains in North Carolina and South Carolina. They do maintain a presence at The Grand Village as well. There were members of the Natchez Nation at the visitor’s center on the day we visited. They were crafting baskets, leather balls (similar to lacrosse balls) and beautiful jewelry. It was a joy to see these items being created before our eyes and to look upon models of the historical village and housing that once existed. These models are possible due to the existence of those historical records and sketches combined with the archeological record.

It was a real treat to visit this site and I do hope to be blessed with similar opportunities during future travels. As we drove away to other experiences in the city of Natchez with new friends (A Visit to a Hallmark Town), I was so grateful and honored to have stood in the midst of these earthen mounds of ancient America. I encourage anyone to learn a little something about the original inhabitants of whatever area you call home.

Oh, and in case you are wondering. The only snake sighting was a dead snake. All was good!